INTERVIEW: Dasha Knyazeva
PHOTO: Luba Kozorezova
FOR CATEGORY “GARDEROBE” we photograph beautifully, distinctly or strangely dressed people in their favorite things and ask you to tell stories related to them. This week, our heroine is the founder of the online store of vintage jewelry More is More Anya Koltsova.
When I was little, my grandmother had two TVs – my brother remembers, when I arrived to her, I flew to the bedroom and spent hours hanging out on Fashion TV. I grew up in Vladivostok, so it was usual for me and my mother to go shopping in the border Chinese cities: Suifenhe, Mudanjiang and Hunchun. There I bought things for myself and my friends – it was some incredible stuff like the pages of Elle Girl. Mamula, of course, was still that fashionista, she always sewed to herself skirt suits and dresses, she even had pair black velvet dresses. From her I have a love for dressing up – I dress up even in a bakery.
I was interested in vintages for about thirteen years: I wanted to look different from others, which was difficult in a provincial city. At fourteen I went to study in Tokyo, where I dressed as an anime character. At sixteen I already lived in Kentucky, and my host family, artists, also adored everything that was old – “dad” even engaged in the restoration of old cars, in which he then rolled us. Every weekend we always went to antique shops and sekondy, to flea markets and fairs. It seems to me that it was then that I was consumed by the love of vintage. Most of all I like to wander for hours in search of interesting finds.
Approximately at the same time, I became interested in ecology – at the university, my friend and I founded a student club for the protection of the environment. Then I almost stopped buying new things – it was contrary to my views. Now my wardrobe consists mainly of vintage, H&M, where I rent old clothes, and things sewn by my girlfriend. In general, the last eleven years I almost every year move from place to place, which also influenced the style. On the one hand, you need to adapt to the local climate, on the other – in different places, fashion and beauty are understood in different ways.
For a long time, the experiments were “freakish”, but now I like something learned and even calmed down: I dress calmly, romantically, I like to emphasize the figure, I appreciate first and foremost the quality of materials and cutting, I pay great attention to color. Half of the vintage I take on purchases for the store, half I find online. I often sew under myself or repair clothes, but rarely spend more than fifty dollars on a thing. I walk a lot, so I’m incredibly important comfort: I will never wear a tight-fitting model or a synthetics in which the body does not breathe.
I bought this costume on eBay for fifteen dollars. Always dreamed of a white trouser suit, but to pick up on my figure a deuce is difficult. Then I was wildly lucky: the trousers were a size larger than the jacket, in addition, with an overstated waist, as I love, and even the brooch was a gift. A jacket is often worn separately – with dresses or jeans.
This dress I found on the “flea” in Los Angeles – it waved in the wind in the rays of the evening sun. As a person who understands vintage, I knew the price and was afraid even to approach this beauty. But in the end, I talked to the seller and she gave him $ 20 dollars. I’m crazy about the buttons on my back – they repeat the vertebrae. To fasten them is a whole ritual, you feel like a real princess. The most difficult task was to find a combination that would exactly match the lines of the top, would not argue with the dress itself and would not spoil the romance. To wear it with a combination I’m still embarrassed and cover the most beautiful detail – buttons – with a jacket. Only the delicate fluttering skirt of the skirt remains in sight.
A cigarette-case in the form of an envelope I use as a purse or a clutch – there are placed bills and cards. I quietly dream of opening a vintage store, where such amazing and elegant wardrobe items would also be sold.
Shoes and pants bought in a period of lack of money in a charity store. I’m very attached to them: these things got to me in hard times at the price of coffee and were necessary for the soul. Trousers are the only synthetic thing in the wardrobe, they sit perfectly, I myself have sewn them in the waist.
Shoes on a small heel – my weakness; I prefer the Salvatore Ferragamo 90-ies, on eBay they can sometimes be found for pennies. Earrings are a rough prototype of the model of our own collection of ornaments, which we will soon launch.
In this uniform I dress up almost every day, and I can wear shorts even in winter – with pantyhose and high boots. This is the most comfortable set of clothes for work.
With this shirt, too, the story is connected: my friend Albina Zueva sewed this for herself at the opening of my store, and then added the model to the collection. I bought it in memory of that day: it turned out that it was so comfortable that you did not even want to shoot it.
I realized that I do not really need big bags – they start to get back in half an hour. This handbag I found last year for the store, but for some reason she did not like anyone. It was worth picking yourself, as all began to constantly try to redeem it. It contains everything necessary, and if I need a computer, I simply put it in a separate shopper.
The color of this blouse is not combined with almost anything from my wardrobe – for that I love it. For me, a smart thing is one that needs a special approach.
With this dress, the present me started. I sewed him to order for the wedding: he has a very beautiful pearl shade and fabulous texture, the fabric dances under every gust of wind. I did not marry in it, but the designer who created this thing became a close person to me, supported me in opening my own store. Thanks to this dress, I finally met my people, gained strength and confidence, began to move forward and make progress in my favorite business. Since then, the dress has been tamed, and now I wear it just like that, with a shirt, jacket or kimono. With this talisman, I will never part, even despite the stain from red wine.
This is one of those things that hangs in prison for a long time, is put on at the mirror, but then goes out to parties or to the theater. Sometimes this dress is taken to abuse girlfriends, so it seems, it does not really miss.
I was convinced by an experienced way that this dress was created for travel and visits. It envelops the body like a small cocoon – the grace of a flowing silk can not be reproduced by any epithets. This dress was complimented on the whole planet, however, once in him I was mistaken for a missionary. In general, in things MY812 I feel like I’m some very rich and successful woman. And I’m also fond of how the gold buttons on the sleeves are combined with the fittings at the bottom of the bag.
This is a favorite, very comfortable pair of shoes that fits almost everything. The investment, of course, is solid, but when they are demolished I do not hesitate to buy new ones. It was these guys that I received as a gift from the godmother when I broke up with a young man and moved back to Petersburg from my beloved Los Angeles. I remember how, wearing it, put them on, and the world turned over instantly. I immediately had a feeling of starting a new life – I do not believe that shopping does not heal.
Similar silk vintage dresses from the 80’s and 90’s I have several, in different colors. They are very convenient for the city and dances. I also love them for their volume in the shoulders and a thin waist, which is precisely for its bright, atypical shade for me.
I waited all winter to put on the poncho sooner – I did it on the very first warm day. It seems that it was supposed to be a rug, but I took it into account – I use both outer clothing and a rug for picnics in the park.
Levi’s vintage jeans are a separate conversation. I love them dearly, but I always take a big overturn and turn them around: I do not like the way their jeans of my size sit. In general, I do not strongly believe in size either. There is a whole pseudo-mini-science about vintage Levi’s, each of their models in different years of production sat in different ways. By the way, vintage Levi’s, as far as I know, do not divide into men’s and women’s, so I usually find the best models in the men’s department of charity shops.
Perfume has always been an important part of my wardrobe. I was influenced by Anya’s friend, the owner of the “First Perfume” in Vladivostok, and the beautiful woman Marina, who works in perfumery Cherry in Rome. They are ill with their work and told me a lot about fragrances, they taught me to choose “their own”, they fell in love with aesthetics and rituals. I like it when friends associate me with a certain smell: I like complex and atypical flavors. For example, Boccanera – chocolate and hashish, Amytis reminds of all the sweets of the world, and Vetiver Veritas reveals bright mint and grapefruit.
As the owner of a store of vintage jewelry, of course, I have almost none of my own – everything goes to the project. The moment when the thing finds its owner, gives me too much joy. Usually I leave the decoration to myself if I find a duplicate. After the shooting, I realized that I needed to change the situation urgently – I feel naked.
Recently I began to make my jewelry. For example, here is a ring with a phallic symbol, which friends call “a ring – *** echko” – the prototype was an ancient Roman ornament.
To us there are different on style ornaments, but I prefer absolutely antiquarian things. Something similar we had in the store, and my heart broke when they were bought. I went myself to look for the same ones. Then I even accidentally broke them, restored and now I am very careful.
Such cigarette cases were made in the beginning of the last century as souvenirs; they wrote the name and address of the customer. You get a cigarette or a credit card from there – this is the most elegant gesture in the world. By the way, it’s interesting that in 2008 YSL came out clutches of a very similar design. I love this cycle!